Aluminum Wiring

Aluminum wiring in residential installations
Issues with aluminum wiring
Since January of 2003 the Electrical Safety Authority has received an increasing number of questions about the safety of aluminum wiring. In particular, purchasers or owners of homes built from the mid 1960’s until the late 1970’s with aluminum wiring are finding that many insurers will not provide or renew insurance coverage on such properties unless the wiring is inspected and repaired or replaced as necessary and this work is inspected by ESA and a copy of the certificate of inspection is provided to the insurer. In some cases the insurer may require replacement of the aluminum wiring with copper wiring. Check with your insurance company for their requirements.

Some homes may have a mixture of aluminum and copper wiring.

Reported problems with aluminum wiring have been related to the overheating and failure of aluminum wiring terminations. This is due to aluminums tendency to oxidize and its incompatibility with devices designed for use with copper wiring. Warm cover plates or discolouration of switches or receptacles, flickering lights, or the smell of hot plastic insulation may evidence these problems.


Each home will be different and must be assessed on its own. It is highly recommended the homeowner hire a licensed electrical contractor who is knowledgeable in the special techniques required for working with and repairing aluminum wiring. The contractor should do an assessment, make the necessary repairs, and have the work inspected by ESA. The homeowner should obtain a copy of the Certificate of Inspection for their records and for their insurance company (if requested).

As mentioned above, where problems exist with aluminum wiring they are usually found at termination points. This necessitates the opening of all outlets (receptacles, switches, fixtures, appliance connections, and in the panelboard) and visually inspecting terminations for signs of failure and overheating without removing or disturbing the devices or wiring. There should be no signs of overheating such as darkened or discoloured connections, melted insulation, etc.

Where problems are found the damaged aluminum conductor should be cut back to remove the damaged portion and then the necessary repairs made.

Required markings for devices used with aluminum wiring
Replacement receptacles and switches shall be installed in compliance with the Ontario Electrical Safety
Code and marked as follows:

All terminations of aluminum conductors shall be to devices marked as per Table F1 and Photo F1; this includes the bare bond conductor as well. Rule 12-118(3) provides two exceptions to this requirement. The first exception is for devices or fixtures with wire leads, in which case the joint between the wire lead and the aluminum conductor shall be made with a wire connector approved for copper to aluminum connections and marked as per Table F1. The second exception is the outlet box bonding screw, which does not require approval for connection of the aluminum bonding conductor.

Photo F1 – Required marking for devices used with aluminum wiring



Terminations of aluminum conductors
Rule 12-118(6) of the Code requires the connection of aluminum conductors to wiring devices having wire binding terminal screws, about which the conductors can be looped under the head of the screw, shall be made by forming the conductor in a clockwise direction around the screw into three-fourths of a complete loop and only one conductor shall be connected to any one screw.

Devices with “push-in” terminations shall not be used with aluminum conductors.

An alternative to using copper/aluminum approved devices is to connect a copper wire “pigtail” betweenthe aluminum conductor and the device connection screw of a device approved for copper onlyconnections. Pigtailing also applies to the bond conductor, which is often overlooked. The wire connector used for the pigtail joint shall be marked as per Table F1.


Rule 12-118(1) states that adequate precaution shall be given to the termination and splicing of aluminum conductors, including the removal of insulation, the cleaning of the bared conductor, the compatibility and installation of fittings.

Aluminum conductors are softer than copper and care must be taken that they are not nicked or cut, orcrushed during termination. Nicks, cuts, or crush spots at terminations result in a weak spot that mayresult in breakage of the conductor or a hot spot.

Rule 12-118(2) requires that a joint compound be used with stranded aluminum conductor connections,but does not require it for solid aluminum conductors. Even though not required by the Code, it isrecommended that bare ends of solid aluminum conductors be coated with approved joint compound.Note: The compound is conductive and should be used sparingly and any excess compound should beremoved.

Where pig tailing is used, Rule 12-3036 must be considered with respect to the minimum volume of box required to contain the existing as well as the new conductors and connections. Where there is notenough room in the existing outlet box, a surface mounted extension box may be required to contain theextra volume necessary to safely accommodate everything.

General inspection
Question
If ESA completes a general inspection, does the OESC require an older house that is wired with
aluminum wiring to have all non-CU/AL devices replaced with devices approved for connection toaluminum wiring (or have copper tails installed as per information included in this Bulletin ( 12-28-*).
Answer
No, If the devices are the original ones installed and show no visible signs of overheating or otherdamage, then they are not required to be replaced (it is recommended only). If a device shows any visible signs of overheating or other damage, then replacement is required. If any of the devices have been replaced in the past with newer devices (ie: Decora style), then they are not original and are required to be replaced with a Code compliant installation.

Rationale
Rule 2-300 requires that operating electrical equipment be kept in safe and proper working condition and
that defective equipment shall either be put in good order or permanently disconnected. Where there is
no evidence of deterioration of the wire, the termination, or the device, then the Code does not require
that repairs be made.
Myths
• Aluminum wiring was recalled because it is known to be a fire hazard.
• Aluminum wiring is no longer used for interior wiring systems.
Fact
• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code permits the installation of aluminum wiring.
• Adequate precautions shall be given to the terminations and splicing of aluminum conductors;
• Aluminum wiring itself is safe if proper connections and terminations are made, without damaging
the wire and devices approved for use with aluminum wire are employed.
• Aluminum wiring is widely used today for larger commercial and industrial feeders. Electrical
distribution companies use it widely throughout their distribution systems including the supply
service cable to most residences; in fact it may still be used today for interior wiring systems in
residential homes as well as other structures. Aluminum wiring itself is safe and if proper connections and terminations are made without damaging the wire and using approved materials installed in accordance with the Ontario Electrical Safety Code and the
manufacturer’s instructions, there should be no problems with the aluminum wiring installation.

The Importance of Changing Furnace Filters

Any qualified Albany HVAC expert will tell you that the easiest, yet most important way to ensure your system works efficiently is to change your furnace filters regularly.

As much as half of the energy used in your home is from your heating and cooling system.  Therefore proper maintenance of your system not only prolongs its life, but has a significant impact on your utility bills and comfort.

Your furnace filters should be checked every month, especially during winter and summer when your system is used the most. At a minimum they should be changed every three months. In order to help you remember when to replace it, try putting a monthly reminder on your Outlook calendar and change it on that same day each month.  This way it is more likely to become a habit and may help you to remember to have extra furnace filters on hand so you’ll be sure to have them when you need them.

A clogged or dirty air filter is a detriment to your heating and air conditioning system and your health; therefore it’s well worth what little time it takes to make sure the filter is clean all year round. With a little planning and forethought, you can keep your HVAC system working as efficiently as possible while decreasing your electric bill, reducing allergy and asthma symptoms, and keeping you cool and comfortable during those hot summer days and warm and cozy all winter long.

Why is changing your furnace filter so important? Whereas clean furnace filters prevents dust and dirt from building up in your system allowing your unit to run smoothly, dirty filters slow down air flow, collect air pollutants and allergens, and make your system work overtime to moderate the temperature in your home.

A dirty furnace filter wastes significant energy and results in much higher utility bills, not to mention can lead to expensive maintenance and possible premature replacement.  Call us now for a furnace check-up if you are concerned about the health of your furnace.

      

Squeaky Floors And How To Get Rid Of Them

Where do squeaks come from? An estimated 85 percent of all squeaks come from the top of the floor joist and the underside of the subfloor. In most cases there’s no glue between the joists and the subfloor and nails were used rather than screws. If nails were used, they most likely were not ring shank nails. Over time, regular nails will pop upward, causing the bottom side of the subfloor to rub on the top surface of the floor joist and on the shank of the nail—and a squeak is born!

Squeaks can come from around floor ductwork. Squeaks can be created if one (or more) of the floor joists crowns downward rather than upward. Squeaks can be found in the field, i.e., the areas between joists. Squeaks could also come from between the subfloor and the underlayment or at the joints where they meet in double-floor construction. In single-floor construction, the squeaks could come from where the subfloor’s joints meet or between hardwood and the subfloor. Normally in single-floor construction T&G sheet goods are used—squeaks could also come from the T&G joints.
Subfloors could be constructed using plywood sheets or 1x materials fastened on an angle to the tops of the floor joists. Normally 1x materials have spaces up to 1-inch between them, so if you are using the kit, it’s possible that you could install a screw into one of these open areas. Because the fastener has nothing to grab on to, it will not work properly. This is one situation where it’s really important to understand your floor’s construction.
Where should you start? First spend time to isolate the squeaks. Once they are located and marked with painters’ blue masking tape, locate your joists and the direction they run.
Next check to see if the squeaks you marked are in the same area as the floor joists (most likely they are). Now you are ready to use the kit. Begin by installing the screws directly over and into the floor joists. It is better to spread your screws apart, and the spread will be determined by the squeaks you located. If after doing this there are still squeaks, then begin again to isolate the squeaks. It’s possible they are now within the field (between floor joists).

MySqueakyFloors.com offers true-tested products to help fix squeaky floors, creaking floors, squeaky carpeted and hardwood floors, and subfloor and stair squeaks. We have thousands of satisfied customers who have purchased and installed these products to repair floor squeaks with success. So why are you still living with squeaky floors?

It's easy to help fix those squeaks once and for all! Just select the squeaky floor product that best fits your situation. It may take just one product or it may take all three to fix your squeaky floors. The next time a loud squeak annoys you, consider these products!

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Private Water Wells

Private Water Wells 

If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Approximately 15% of Canadians rely on their own private drinking water supplies. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the water’s source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies. 

Basic Information 

There are two typical types of private drinking water wells: dug and drilled. Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. The well should be located so rainwater flows away from it. Rainwater can pick up harmful bacteria and chemicals on the land’s surface. If this water pools near your well, it can seep into it, potentially causing health problems. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed if required. 

To keep your well safe, you must be sure that possible sources of contamination are not close by. Experts suggest the following distances as a minimum for protection — farther are better 

· septic tanks: 50 feet; 

· livestock yards, silos, septic leach fields: 50 feet; 

· petroleum tanks, liquid-tight manure storage and fertilizer storage and handling: 100 feet; and 

· manure stacks: 250 feet. 

Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis-levels. That can be expensive. It’s better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your well’s performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs, plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work. 

Dug Wells 

Dug wells are holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the ground water table until incoming water exceeded the digger’s bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the ground water table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated. To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing, or through the casing and into the well. 

Dug Well Construction Features 

· The well should be cased with a watertight material (for example, tongue-and-groove pre-cast concrete), and a cement grout or bentonite clay sealant poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. 

· The well should be covered by a concrete curb and cap that stands about a foot above the ground. 

· The land surface around the well should be mounded so that surface water runs away from the well and is not allowed to pond around the outside of the wellhead. 

· Ideally, the pump for your well should be inside your home or in a separate pump house, rather than in a pit next to the well. 

Land activities around a dug well can also contaminate it. While dug wells have been used as a household water supply source for many years, most are relics of older homes, dug before drilling equipment was readily available, or when drilling was considered too expensive. If you have a dug well on your property and are using it for drinking water, check to make sure it is properly covered and sealed. Another problem relating to the shallowness of a dug well is that it may go dry during a drought when the ground water table drops. 

Drilled Wells 

Drilled wells penetrate about 100 to 400 feet into the bedrock. Where you find bedrock at the surface, it is commonly called ledge. To serve as a water supply, a drilled well must intersect bedrock fractures containing ground water. 

Drilled Well Construction Features 

· The casing is usually metal or plastic pipe, 6 inches in diameter that extends into the bedrock to prevent shallow ground water from entering the well. By law, the casing has to extend at least 18 feet into the ground, with at least 5 feet extending into the bedrock. The casing should also extend a foot or two above the ground’s surface. A sealant, such as cement grout or bentonite clay, should be poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. The well should be capped to prevent surface water from entering the well. 

· Submersible pumps, located near the bottom of the well, are most commonly used in drilled wells. Wells with a shallow water table may feature a jet pump located inside the home. Pumps require special wiring and electrical service. Well pumps should be installed and serviced by a qualified professional registered with your province. 

· The well pipe used was often 8, 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and covered with a concrete well cap either at or below the ground’s surface. This outmoded type of construction does not provide the same degree of protection from surface contamination. 

How can I test the quality of my private drinking water supply? 

Consider testing your well for pesticides, organic chemicals, and heavy metals before you use it for the first time. Test private water supplies annually for nitrate and coliform bacteria to detect contamination problems early. Test them more frequently if you suspect a problem. Be aware of activities in your watershed that may affect the water quality of your well, especially if you live in an area with no sewers.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are self-activating electrical pumps that protect homes from moisture intrusion. They are usually installed below basement or crawlspace floors to remove rising groundwater and surface runoff before it has a chance to seep into the home. Accumulated water can cause interior damage and encourage the growth of mould, mildew, and fungus. Pumps should be maintained and equipped with all necessary components in order to ensure their reliability.



How a Sump Pump Works

A pit, known as a sump pit or sump trench, can be dug at the lowest part of the basement floor to capture and contain any flowing water. A sump pump sits at the bottom of this trench (or beside it) and expels excess water through a series of interconnected pipes to a suitable discharge location. The pump can sense water levels through a float that rises and falls with fluctuating water levels in the trench. The sump pump becomes activated and deactivated based on the height of the float, providing a simple, automated way to monitor and deal with variable water levels.

Types of Sump Pumps

Pedestal sump pumps sit above the water line beside the sump trench and are not designed to get wet. Since they are not contained within the sump pit, they can be accessed easily but are also very noisy. They cost roughly $60 to $200, which is significantly less than other varieties.

Submersible sump pumps rest underwater at the bottom of the sump pit, and are much quieter than pedestal pumps. Their oil-cooled motors and tight seals protect against water and dust and afford them a long lifespan. They can cost up to $600.

Maintenance

The pump must be kept clean and free of debris. The inlet screen prevents the passage of dirt and other solid material from entering the pump, but it can become overwhelmed. Cleanings should occur often for pumps that run constantly.

Inspectors should make sure that the float is not tangled or jammed in one position. A sump pump with a jammed float is useless because it will not sense when it should turn on and shut off.

The pump can be tested by pouring water into the pit to make sure it becomes activated and expels the water. The homeowner should seek professional assistance if the pump does not activate.

Maintenance should take place annually, and when the home is sold.
When testing the pump, no one should ever reach into the pit. The float can be reached and manipulated with a household item such as a golf club (with a rubber handle) or anything else non-conductive that happens to be lying around.

Check for the presence of the following:
.
A GFCI. There is considerable debate among inspectors concerning whether or not a sump pump should be connected to a GFCI. It is possible that a GFCI can prevent electrocution, but it is extremely unlikely that a sump pump will energize water in the first place. It is much more likely that a GFCI will trip during safe conditions and deactivate the sump pump when it is needed. A sump pump is among the most critical of all household appliances, and its deactivation, especially if the tenants are not home, could allow catastrophic building damage. Codes recommend that appliances in basements and crawlspaces be connected to GFCI’s to reduce the chance of electrical shock, but this advice is often ignored due to these concerns over nuisance tripping.
An alarm. Sump pumps can burn out, lose power, become clogged or misaligned, or malfunction in a variety of other ways. It is valuable to have a warning device installed that will signal water build-up. These alarms can alert homeowners or neighbours of flooding so that it can be resolved before water damage occurs. Alarms are especially important in residences that are not occupied for long periods of time. Inspectors should keep in mind that, while an alarm can be helpful, it is not a requirement.

A check valve. This device is the same diameter as the discharge pipe into which it fits and is usually a different color. A check valve should be installed in order to prevent pumped water in the discharge line from re-entering the sump pit when the device is turned off. Without this valve, the pump will have to work twice as hard to remove the same column of water, which causes unnecessary strain to the pump components. A check valve can also prevent the rare yet disturbing possibility that a discharge line connected to a stream or pond will back-siphon into the sump pit.
A backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed. For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the home’s water pressure can also be installed as a backup.
The pit should be large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should not be less than 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide. One of the most common reasons why sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit because the pit is too cramped.
A cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating into the home & to prevent insects entering the home from the sump pit.

Specialized Sump Pump Systems

There are sump pump systems available that come with backup pumps & power backup built into the system. One such system is the “Triple safe sump pump system”. This system comes with a total of three pumps (two backup pumps) & is available online or at local hardware stores.
To view a video about the Triple safe system, click on the following link & click on the Triple Safe sump pump video at the bottom of the page:
http://thehomeinspectiontoronto.ca/video/

Discharge Location

Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure’s foundation.
Water should not drain onto a neighbour’s property without their approval.
Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
Pumped water should never drain into a residence’s septic system. Especially during heavy rain, a septic drain field will become saturated and will struggle to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the sump pump can damage the septic system.
In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspection will ensure pump efficiency and prolong their lifespan.

Septic Systems

 Septic Systems

Septic systems treat and disperse relatively small volumes of wastewater from individual and small numbers of homes and commercial buildings. Septic system regulation is usually a local responsibility.

Information for Homeowners

If your septic tank failed, or you know someone whose did, you are not alone. As a homeowner, you are responsible for maintaining your septic system. Proper septic system maintenance will help keep your system from failing and will help maintain your investment in your home. Failing septic systems can contaminate the ground water that you and your neighbors drink and can pollute nearby rivers, lakes and coastal waters.

 Ten simple steps you can take to keep your septic system working properly:

1.    Locate your septic tank and drain field. Keep a drawing of these locations in your records.

2.    Have your septic system inspected at least every three years. Hire an inspector trained in septic inspections. 

3.    Pump your septic tank as needed (generally, every three to five years).

4.    Don't dispose of household hazardous waste in sinks or toilets.

5.    Keep other household items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of your system.

6.    Use water efficiently.

7.    Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drain field.

8.    Keep vehicles and livestock off your septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil.

9.    Keep gutters and basement sump pumps from draining into or near your septic system.

10.  Check with your local health department before using additives. Commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and can be harmful to your system.

How does it work?  A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a drain field, and the soil. Microbes in the soil digest and remove most contaminants from wastewater before it eventually reaches groundwater. The septic tank is a buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. It holds the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle out (forming sludge), and oil and grease to float to the surface (as scum). It also allows partial decomposition of the solid materials. Compartments and a T-shaped outlet in the septic tank prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drain field area. Screens are also recommended to keep solids from entering the drain field. The wastewater exits the septic tank and is discharged into the drain field for further treatment by the soil. Micro-organisms in the soil provide final treatment by removing harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients.

Pump frequently...You should have your septic system inspected at least every three years by a professional, and have your tank pumped as necessary (generally every three to five years).

Use water efficiently...Average indoor water use in the typical single-family home is almost 70 gallons per person per day. Dripping faucets can waste about 2,000 gallons of water each year. Leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day. The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system.

Flush responsibly... Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom waste can clog and potentially damage septic system components. Flushing household chemicals, gasoline, oil, pesticides, anti-freeze and paint can stress or destroy the biological treatment taking place in the system, as well as contaminate surface waters and groundwater.

How do I maintain my septic system?

• Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the drain field.
• Don’t drive or park vehicles on any part of your septic system. Doing so can compact the soil in your drain field or damage the pipes, the tank or other septic system components.
• Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater and surface water drainage systems away from the drain field. Flooding the drain field with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up. 

Why should I maintain my septic system? A key reason to maintain your septic system is to save money! Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Having your septic system inspected (at least every three years) is a bargain when you consider the cost of replacing the entire system. Your system will need pumping every three to five years, depending on how many people live in the house and the size of the system. An unusable septic system or one in disrepair will lower your property’s value and could pose a legal liability. Other good reasons for safe treatment of sewage include preventing the spread of infection and disease, and protecting water resources. Typical pollutants in household wastewater are nitrogen, phosphorus and disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Nitrogen and phosphorus are aquatic plant nutrients that can cause unsightly algae blooms. Excessive nitrate-nitrogen in drinking water can cause pregnancy complications, as well as methemoglobinemia (also known as "blue baby syndrome") in infancy. Pathogens can cause communicable diseases through direct or indirect body contact, or ingestion of contaminated water or shellfish. If a septic system is working properly, it will effectively remove most of these pollutants.

Mould Quick Facts

Should I be concerned about serious health risks from mould?

It is important to note that everyone is exposed to mould spores on a daily basis. Mould grows naturally in our outdoor environment. Even though mould spores are found in our homes and buildings we do not want them growing there. Mould is known to be an allergen and some cases toxic. There are very few reports of toxic moulds inside homes causing rare health conditions. A better safe than sorry approach should be taken. Any mould contamination existing inside buildings and homes should be eradicated. The Mayo tests found that over ninety-three percent of cases of chronic bronchitis were the result of fungal infection, not bacteria as is generally assumed. (Taken from Dr. Michael Pinto’s book Fungal Contamination, A Comprehensive Guide for Remediation) Individuals with immune or respiratory problems, pregnant-women, the elderly, and children may be at increased risk of illness from moulds.

What are the health effects of mould?

.Health effects of mould are dependent upon the individual, length of exposure, and volume of spores inhaled or ingested. Some effects include, but are not limited to:

Chronic headaches,
Eyes, nose and throat irritation,
Sneezing,
Coughing,
Nausea,
Fever,
Vomiting,
Diarrhea,
Chronic fatigue,
Asthma/respiratory problems.

How common is mould in buildings?

Mould is very common in our homes and buildings. The most common mould in our homes is mould found on bread. All moulds are not harmful. But infestations of mould need to be controlled immediately upon discovery.

How do moulds get inside and how do they grow?

Mould spores may enter your home through open doorways, windows, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems. Spores may also attach themselves to people, animals, toys, shoes, and carry bags bringing the mould indoors.

Many building materials provide nutrients that allow the mould to cultivate when exposed to moisture. Wet materials, including paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products, are primary sites for mould growth. Other materials such as dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation materials, drywall, carpet, and upholstery, also support the growth of mould.

What is Stachybotrys?

Stachybotrys is a specific kind of mould present in our environment. Outdoor Stachybotrys moulds help decay organic matter. One particular species known as Stachybotrys atra (sometimes known as Stachybotrys chartarum) is prone to growth indoors. This mould is normally dark brown or black in colour. It can look slimy, sooty, or even like grayish white strands, depending on the amount of moisture available and the length of time it has been growing. Many other common indoor moulds can look similar to Stachybotrys.

It is important to remember no matter what type of mould you have removal is the only course of action.

How do I know if I have a mould problem?

A visual examination is the most dependable means of identifying a mould problem. Musty odours or changes in health could be the first signs of mould in your home. Some signs to look for would be standing water, condensation on windows, floods, or roof leaks - all of which could lead to mould growth. Mould may grow in your wall cavities or attic spaces where it is not easily found. When unsure, call in a professional.

What should people do if they determine they have mould?

First thing to do if you have mould is determine the extent of the problem. This might, and most times should, be done in conjunction with a professional. This might require a consultation only, but remember health is the most important part of the clean-up process. A professional will be able to guide you in the right direction.

Underlying problems that have allowed the mould to grow will become part of the process to clean and rid your home of further unwanted mould growth.

How do you keep mould out of buildings and homes?

Buildings should be inspected on a regular basis for evidence of water damage. Conditions such as water leaks, flooding, condensation or excessive humidity should be corrected immediately upon discovery to prevent mould from growing.

Recommendations:
Be sure the building is properly ventilated
Clean bathrooms on a regular basis
Wipe up spills immediately
Remove or dry out flood damaged building materials within 24 to 48hrs

Can I make my landlord test my apartment for mould?

No. If you believe you have a mould problem, you will need to take pictures and document your problem, or contact us for an inspection by one of our certified mould inspectors. You may need to take the information gathered to the Rental Tribunal or your local building standards by-law office for help remediating your situation.

Should I paint over mould?

No. Mould is an allergen and must be removed to rid the home or building of its effects.

Common Myths about Mould

My house is mould-free...

Mould grows naturally in our outdoor environment. Even though mould spores are found in our homes and buildings we do not want them growing there. Mould is known to be an allergen and some cases toxic. There are very few reports of toxic mould inside homes causing rare health conditions. A better safe than sorry approach should be taken. Any mould contamination existing inside buildings and homes should be removed. The Mayo tests established that over ninety-three percent of cases of chronic bronchitis were the result of fungal infection, not bacteria as is generally assumed. (Taken from Dr. Michael Pinto’s book Fungal Contamination, A Comprehensive Guide for Remediation) Individuals with immune or respiratory problems, pregnant women, the elderly, and children may be at increased risk of illness from moulds.

Dead mould won’t hurt me...

Dead mould can be as harmful as live mould. Dead or alive, mould spores are still allergens.

If I can’t see mould, I don’t have mould...

Mould is part of nature. Every home and work place has mould. If you are concerned that mould is a problem in your home and you can’t see it, it may be necessary to have a qualified inspector investigate your concern. There may be hidden areas where mould could be growing. Common areas of concern are behind basement wall finishes or attics.

Toxic black Mould...

What does it mean if you have black toxic mould? The first thing to consider is how do you know it’s toxic? All black mould is not toxic and all toxic mould is not black.

Black is just a colour. Many moulds appear black in colour. In fact, mould comes in many colours - every colour in the rainbow. Black mould (as referred to by the media) is Stachybotrys Chartarum. Stachybotrys has the ability to produce mycotoxins.
Regardless of the type, mould should be removed as people can react differently to different types of mould. What might bother one person may not bother another. Mould removal is the best course of action.

If I paint over mould no one will ever know it was there...

Painting over mould just covers it up. When this mould comes in contact with moisture it will begin to grow. The best practice is to remove visible signs of mould before treating the surface with any chemical or paint.

My house is clean, I don’t have mould...

Even the cleanest homes have mould. Mould is a part of nature. The job mould has in life is to break down organic material and return it to nature. Having mould is a moisture issue - not a cleanliness issue.

I live in a new build, I don’t have mould...

The age of a home or building has no relationship to mould. Moisture is the key to controlling mould. Mould will not grow in a dry home.