Orangeburg Pipe

Orangeburg pipes

Orangeburg pipes are main waste lines that typically join to cast iron.  The connection is done underground so you will not be able to see it.  The pipes are made of paper and tar and formed into a pipe connecting to the city waste line.  Used in the 50’s and 60’s (when iron was re-directed to the war effort), the material breaks down over time.  This can be accelerated by various products that run through the drain (including chemicals, nail polish remover, etc. that are put down drains) and snaking or cleaning these pipes can also cause more damage.

Bituminized fiber drain and sewer pipe (a.k.a. Orangeburg pipe; Bermico pipe).

Manufactured in Orangeburg South Carolina, the pipe later adopted this name

Orangeburg pipe was used in the 1950’s and 1960’s when all cast was being used for the war effort.  The joint for these pipes is below ground and therefore, you will not be able to see it and it was used with interior cast drains. The pipes are now failing and need replacement, as they tend to collapse over time.  Some companies will line the existing pipe, but this will not always be possible as the pipe in many cases changes to an oval shape as it weakens and before it collapses completely. 

Excerpt from the following site:  http://www.civil.uwaterloo.ca/catt/history.html

In the early 1990s, the City of Waterloo began experiencing premature failures of Black Fibre Pipe (also known as Orangeburg or Bermico pipes) sewer laterals that were in-service for less than 20 years. Black fibre pipes, 51 to 200 mm (2 and 8 in.) in diameter, are compressed paper fibre tubes that are vacuum impregnated with bituminous coal tar pitch to form a pipe composed of approximately 25% fibre stock and 75% bitumen.

During World War II, governments mandated limited domestic use of steel to aid the war effort. This and the lower manufacturing cost of black fibre pipe as compared to steel, clay, and concrete pipes led to the rapid usage of black fibre pipe for sanitary laterals, drains, and conduits. Black fibre pipe remained a popular choice for sewer laterals following the end of the war, until the late 1960s, when plastic pipes were introduced. During the 1950s and 1960s, a period of rapid growth at the City of Waterloo, approximately 4,000 residential sewer laterals consisting of black fibre pipes were installed.

Soon after the installation of those black fibre laterals, home owners began experiencing sewer back-ups due to the collapse of pipes. Initially the failed house laterals were replaced by new pipes using open-cut excavation from the houses to the streets. The open-cut construction took several days to complete, was disruptive to both homeowners and city residents, and cost approximately $6500 per lateral. Since the homeowner owned the lateral, the construction cost was shared between the home owner and the City. Due to the large number of premature failures and construction issues, the City of Waterloo decided to assume the full cost of replacing failed black fibre pipe sewer laterals. As a result of this decision, the City of Waterloo had to assume $26 million dollar liability.

There are a few videos available on YouTube showing the product.  The following link is from a plumbing contractor that has worked with the product in the US..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwgOPg2KLt0

Lining the pipe – an easy fix, but only possible if the pipes are still round

Potential Solution

One inspector mentioned that whenever a house is over 50 years old, he recommends they have a plumber scope the main waste line – costs vary but are typically around $300.  Considering the potential damage and increased chances of root damage, blockages and the impact on a family when these and other older drains fail, it is a recommendation to take under consideration.  We do not have any statistics on where they are used, except in the Waterloo region, Orangeville and Toronto.

15 Tips for lowering your heating bill

15 Tips for lowering your heating bill

Save cash every month by saving energy in your home. Follow these tips to lower your heating bill and make your house more energy efficient.

It's not the snow banks, bad driving or dark-side-of-the-moon type temperatures that frighten Canadians about winter; it's the cost of keeping warm. It's expensive, it's unavoidable and it's likely to go on until May or so, depending on your zone. But there are things we can do to lessen the blow. Here are 15 tips to take some of the bite out of those heating bills.

1. How well is your home insulated? Here's a little experiment: the next time your neighbourhood gets a dusting of fresh snow, go take a look around. Some roofs will hold the snow and some will melt it from underneath. You want a roof that holds the snow -- that's a sure sign of a well-insulated roof. The bare roof is a sure sign of heat loss.

2. Get your furnace serviced. A well-running, clean furnace is an efficient furnace -- and a safer furnace. Check into service plans you can purchase. 

3. If your furnace is old and inefficient, think about replacing it with a new, energy-efficient model. Check with your municipality and provincial government about any incentive plans or rebates, and look into the Government of Canada's ecoEnergy Retrofit program, which offers grants to help make homes more energy efficient.

4. Heat yourself first, then the house. Put on a sweater, socks and cosy slippers. Snuggle up on the sofa with a blanket when watching television or reading a magazine. Then turn that thermostat down to 68°F or 20°C -- still a comfortable temperature, but one that will save you money.

5. Check your house for drafts, and install weather stripping where needed, as well as clear plastic sheeting over windows in as many rooms as you can.

6. Close off unused rooms. Shutting doors means you'll only heat the rooms you use most often. Close vents in unused rooms, too. On the other hand, do heat the basement -- even if you don't go down there much. A cold basement will make the first floor of your house feel cold.

7. If you have a wood-burning fireplace, remember to shut the flue when it's not in use. Heat will fly right up and out if you don't.

8. Close the curtains or blinds over windows at night to help keep precious heat in; open them all up during the day to collect free heat from the sun.

9. Craft or buy door and window draft snakes -- they really do help, and they're adorable.

10. Don't heat the house for Bubbles the goldfish. When you go to work, turn the thermostat down to 60°F or 16°C. Even if you have a dog or cat, they'll be fine. After all, they're wearing a fur coat and love to burrow in blankets.

11. Install a programmable thermostat. Set it to lower the temperature at bedtime and when you leave for work, and to warm up before you get home or crawl out from under the duvet.

12. Don't sleep in a sauna. Turn the temperature down to 60°F or 16°C while you're all bundled up in blankets. And speaking of bedtime, try wearing fluffy socks at night.

13. How is your home heated? Right now, natural gas is generally the cheapest way to go. But what to do if your old house is devoid of ductwork because when electricity was cheaper, the previous owner put in mega-watt-sucking baseboard heaters? 

Well, you could do a major renovation or you could invest in a gas room-heater or fireplace. They're relatively inexpensive -- units can start at $2,000, installed -- and considering the value and warmth one would add to your abode, the cost is totally worth it.

14. Install ceiling fans to push the hot air back down to people level and circulate the warmth.

15. Just finished baking or roasting something in the oven? Leave the oven door ajar and use that heat for an extra blast of warmth in the kitchen.

Between the holiday feasts and buying gifts, winter can be a challenging time to save money. But by adopting a few good heating habits, we can cut back on waste, and that's money in the bank.

October Winterization

October  Winterization

October is the first full month of fall; by the end of this month, most of your winterization should be completed. Falling leaves and dwindling daylight signal a final opportunity to do some outdoor organizing before winter settles in.

Repair roof shingles
Try to do this on a warm day if you have asphalt shingles on your roof, so the shingles will be flexible. Use roofing cement to seal cracked and torn shingles and to reattach curled shingles. Then tack down the damage further with galvanized roofing nails, and cover the exposed nail heads with roofing cement. Split wood shingles can be patched with roofing cement as well.

Repair siding
Do a fall siding inspection and remedy any problems you find. Look for damaged paint, warped or split
wood, cracks or holes in stucco, and missing or slipped siding panels. Your repair tool kit will depend on what kind of siding you have: For example, wood siding may require wood putty, waterproof glue, nails and screws; stucco may require wire mesh, stucco patching compound, a trowel and a chisel. Most types of siding require a coating of sealant or primer, and paint to finish the repair and ensure waterproofing.

Reinforce windows

Replace your screens with storm windows. If your screens are dirty or damaged, repair and clean before storing them to prevent further deterioration. Light scrubbing followed by a blast from a hose will eliminate bird droppings and other grime. Small tears can be sewn up with thin wire. If you have older single-pane windows and no storm coverings, apply heat-shrink plastic to the inner or outer window frame to create an insulating air space and save heating expense.

Fire fluency
Make sure your damper is in good working order by opening and shutting it prior to lighting the first fire of the season. If you didn't clean your chimney at the end of the heating season, do it now — especially if you burn soft woods, which release more creosote. Often the first indication that a chimney needs cleaning is a chimney fire, so preventive maintenance is important.

Detect deadly gas
If you heat your home with wood heat or a gas heater, a carbon-monoxide detector is a must. These devices look and sound like smoke detectors, but they detect carbon-monoxide gas instead. Units that plug into an outlet are also available.

Check batteries in smoke detectors

Daylight saving time ends Nov. 7. Get into the habit of checking smoke-
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detector batteries when you "fall back" and "spring ahead." Also make sure household fire extinguishers are fully pressurized and in good working order.

Close seasonal air conditioners

If you live in a place where air conditioners are used seasonally instead of year-round, this is a good month to close them down. Switch off power, make sure the condensate drain is clear, and clean condenser coils and filters (a vacuum will do). Either remove window units or cover                       ............................................... them, to protect your home from drafts and the units from inclement weather.

Bleed air from radiators
Radiators can get air pockets in them when not in use. If air pockets stay, they will keep the unit from heating up to its full capacity. If your unit doesn't have automatic air valves, you need to bleed it prior to every heating season. To bleed air out, turn on the furnace and circulator and open the supply valve to the radiator. Find the bleeder valve (it's usually opposite the supply valve) and open it while holding a pan to it. Air should be released, followed by hot water (thus the pan). Close the valve as the water comes out. Lightly feel the radiator to make sure it is heated along its entire surface; if there are gaps, repeat the procedure.

Cut brush back from the house
Before stowing all of your gardening equipment for the winter, walk around your house with a weed whacker and a pair of pruners and cut back any brush, weeds or branches that contact your house. This task will eliminate a common access point for insects, rodents and rot. It will also keep branches and shrubs from scraping away at your siding during windstorms.

Watch those leaves
If you don't want the tannin in fall leaves to leave hard-to-clean imprints on your deck and concrete walkways, keep those surfaces leaf-free. If you do get some leaf prints, try a solution of half water and half bleach (test it first in an unobtrusive spot — it may lighten the wood on your deck) or trisodium phosphate (commonly known as TSP) and warm water. Or, just leave the prints and consider them an artistic addition to your exterior look.

Bottom of Form

Winterize external plumbing systems


This is the most important job of fall if you live in an area that freezes in the winter. The simple fact that water expands upon freezing has caused countless homeowners innumerable woes. Ignore this job and flooding, water damage and thousands of dollar’s worth of plumbing bills will be your constant winter companions.

Here's your to-do list:

·         Drain underground sprinkler systems. 

·         Have outdoor pools drained and professionally serviced.  

·         Drain exterior water pipes and any pipes that run through unheated areas (such as a garage, crawl space or unheated porch). If draining these pipes isn't possible, wrap them with foam insulation or heat tape. 

·         Cover exposed spigots with foam covers. Or, if cosmetics and ease of removal don't matter, wrap spigots in layers of newspaper, cover the newspaper with a plastic bag, and seal the whole affair with duct tape. 

·         Drain and store garden hoses. Leave one hose and nozzle somewhere that's easily accessible; you'll need it for gutter cleaning and car washing.

Why should you have your furnace serviced?

Why should you have your furnace serviced?

Pass this tip on to your clients.

Heating season is here. But before you turn up the heat, have your system serviced first. I have found that many people do not service their furnaces every year. In fact, from the look of these furnaces, we wonder if any have ever been serviced.

If you are tempted to check your heating system yourself, we suggest you resist temptation. Unless you are a heating technician, you will not likely detect problems in your system with great accuracy. This is one system that requires a licensed technician.

Here’s why a yearly service by a qualified technician is important:

Health and Safety

Your heating system burns fuel. In a well-functioning system, the heat from the combustion process goes into your house while the combustion gasses vent outside. There are several reasons why combustion gasses may end up flowing into the house. If an animal builds its home in your chimney, for example, combustion gasses can back up into your house. Combustion gasses that leak into your house present health and safety hazards. In a worst-case scenario, carbon monoxide poisoning can lead to death.

When a technician services your heating system, he or she should verify the flow of combustion gasses. The technician will also look for leaking natural gas or oil and check for proper ignition. Once again, health and safety are the concern.

Efficiency

A well-tuned heating system is more efficient. This is good for the environment and saves you money. A quick adjustment of the fuel mixture in your heating system may make all the difference. Again, this is something only a technician can assess.

Keep It Running

A well-maintained heating system will last longer. If you service your furnace yearly, any adverse conditions will only have an opportunity to damage your furnace for, at most, one season. For instance, if you call a technician at the beginning of the winter, he or she may find a problem, such as a condensation leak, in your high efficiency furnace. The condensate from a high efficiency furnace is fairly corrosive and can damage your furnace. If the problem were left for several years, the furnace would fail before its intended life expectancy.

Inexpensive Peace of Mind

A yearly service call by a qualified heating technician is not expensive and the job doesn’t take long. If the technician does not find anything wrong, the fee will be in the order of $100 to $140. If the technician does find something wrong, it is better to know about it now, before the problem gets worse and costs much more.

If the prospect of an unexpected repair does not appeal to you, you can buy a basic warranty package that will cover the cost of many of these repairs. Before you buy the warranty, however, read the fine print: not all warranties are the same. Some exclude virtually everything that can go wrong, rendering them useless.

What Can You Do Yourself?

There are a few things you can do yourself. You can clean or replace the furnace filter; clean the humidifier, if you have one; bleed the hot water radiators, if you have a hot water system, just to mention a few. Do-it-yourself maintenance is important, but your heating system needs professional servicing to keep it running at peak efficiency, ensuring your health and safety.

Wet Basement

Wet Basement

A wet basement can be just a nuisance or even real nightmare. Each year, thousands of homeowners are faced with the unpleasant side effects of seasonal rainfall. Problems they can face range from just dampness to even flooding. Chronic basement leakage is a serious problem that can destroy personal property, furnishings, appliances, and sometimes even cause permanent structural damage to a homes foundation. Excessive moisture is a huge attraction to wood-eating insects, wood rot and decay.

Despite the pervasiveness of the problem, few homeowners are aware of the causes of water leakage.

Some Common Causes

One common cause of basement leakage is improper surface drainage, such as a yard sloped toward the home. In many cases, the problem can be greatly alleviated by re-grading the yard to slope away from the homes foundation or diverting surface water around the house.

Other common culprits include poorly positioned rain gutter downspouts, missing, leaking or clogged rain gutters. A downspout that is improperly positioned to drain against the side of the house, allows water to build up along the foundation wall, until the backed-up "reservoir" finds a weak spot in the foundation wall.

The most difficult cause of basement leakage is a high water table. A high water table problem occurs when the home is built too deeply in the ground, into the level where water remains constant throughout the year. A high water table problem can also be caused by under ground springs or sustained periods of rainfall that cause the water table to rise during the wet seasons.

Is it Leakage or Condensation?

You should try to determine if your problem is actually water "leaking" in or if it's just condensation forming on the cool surfaces. Condensation occurs when warm, humid air comes into contact with cooler basement walls, floors, water pipes etc.

As an example, just take a cold bottle of soda out of your refrigerator and set it on the counter. After several minutes, you'll notice steam forming on the outside of the bottle. After many minutes pass, you will see a small puddle of water forming at the base of the bottle, as the beads of moisture start dripping down. This is a classic example of condensation, not "leakage". If your basement is actually leaking, the water should not just "appear". You should be able to see where it's coming in as it leaks, in the form of a puddle or stream or water.

Helpful Tips

Your rain gutters should be cleaned of leaves and debris at least once per year.

Downspouts should direct water runoff from the roof to a discharge point at least several feet away from the homes foundation. Use a splash block at the end of your downspout to avoid soil erosion. Never bury your downspout lines unless you can empty them out to daylight.

Buy a good dehumidifier to lower the natural humidity level in your basement. Make sure your dehumidifier is the proper size for your basement. Ask for a drain hose attachment so you don't have to empty the water collected every day. Get a unit with a built-in de-icer. Dehumidifiers are actually refrigeration coils and can freeze up and stop working.

Keep the doors and windows to your basement closed, year round. Opened doors and windows allow extra humidity to enter your basement, causing condensation. Your dehumidifier will also run less.

Waterproofing Paints and Sealers

There are several good waterproofing paints and sealers on the market today. Waterproof paints and sealers can work well for minor dampness on walls and floors. Pay special attention to the preparation instructions from the products manufacturer. Be aware though, interior waterproof paints and sealers don't do anything to alleviate the "source" of the problem.


Time For a Professional?


A professional basement waterproofing contractor can offer you a variety of solutions, depending on the source of your problem. Methods can include outside excavation, installation of drain tile, parging your walls, interior drainage systems or epoxy cove systems




In Conclusion

Prevention is always the first and best approach. Look closely at the grading around your property and make sure your rain gutters are in good working order. Get a good quality dehumidifier to reduce humidity in your basement.

If you've done your best to correct your problem and it still leaks, it might be best to bring in a professional. Check companies for local references, ask for a certificate of insurance, check the companies warranty to see what's covered and check them out with your local Better Business Bureau.

Why do I need a Home Inspection?

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A home inspection prior to purchasing a home or condominium can bring peace of mind when you sign the sales contract. Knowing what to expect both inside and out will help you make an informed decision about the value of the home and the future upkeep.

A home inspection accomplishes two important goals. First, it gives you a chance to determine the condition of the house, its structural soundness, and the condition of its mechanical systems. Second, it brings any problems to the seller’s attention at a time when they can be resolved before closing a sale.

A comprehensive inspection includes a visual examination of the structure from top to bottom, including the heating, air conditioning systems, the interior plumbing and electrical systems, the roof and visible insulation, walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors, the foundation, basement and visible structure.

Following the examination, the inspector will provide a report that not only points out possible defects or areas of concerns, but also the positive aspects of the structure as well as the type of maintenance that will be necessary to keep the home in good shape.

Even the most experienced homeowners lack the knowledge and expertise of a professional inspection firm. For example, watermarks in the basement may indicate a chronic seepage problem, or simply may be a result of a single incident.

A professional assessment will provide complete information about the condition of the property you are considering and will help avoid any unpleasant surprises after the sale. In addition, a home inspector can remain totally objective, while you as a prospective homebuyer may be emotionally involved.

The inspection fee for a typical single-family house can vary depending upon the geographic area. The particular features of the home such as size, age and special structures will be taken into consideration. A decision to have a home inspected is a good investment. You might save many times the cost of inspection by being aware of defects, maintenance requirements, and upgrading requirements.

Good decorating should not sell you on a house. Remember, you’re also buying structural and mechanical systems. Walk through a house twice before you hire an inspector. The first time, look at the rooms, the floor plan, and envision your own decorating ideas for the house. The second time, go back and look at the condition of the walls, doors, appliance, and plumbing. If the home still looks good after two visits and you’re getting serious about the purchase, hire an inspector.

When interviewing a potential home inspection firm, carefully inquire about the specifics of their work and company. Ask how long they have been in business, ask for references from previous customers. Find out what type of insurance they carry.

A home inspection usually lasts about three hours. Professional inspection companies will be happy to answer all your questions. Avoid firms that issue only a verbal report. The report should be in narrative form, not just a checklist of items inspected. The home inspector should also issue a written report. You may find it valuable to accompany the inspector as he goes through the house.

Checklist for Selling your Home

Making the right first impression is critical, it drives more traffic to the house and helps potential
buyers focus on the overall home and improve your chances of selling – at your price. In many
instances, the potential buyer will know within minutes whether the house meets their needs or
not. This checklist, along with the advice of your Realtor will help focus on the maintenance
issues that can help your home sell quicker and for a better price.

Check the major systems

After location and style of the home, the needs of a homebuyer move to the condition of the
basic structure and major mechanical systems. Most buyers are not prepared to spend money
correcting problems in such critical areas. Your own thorough investigation of the following
major items can help determine if any issues exist. The most critical areas to check include:
· Roof structure and covering – look for damage, worn areas and water leaks.
· Foundation, basement, and/or crawl space – any foundation cracks or water leaks should be
repaired
· Central heating and air conditioning systems – these units can be professionally cleaned and
serviced to ensure proper working condition. You can check for signs of rust or black stains
that may indicate a more serious concern
· Electrical system and plumbing systems are not for the layman, but if you have any recurring
issues, have a professional determine and repair those concerns.

Make maintenance improvements
The maintenance improvements listed below are relatively easy and inexpensive to make, yet
they can substantially improve a home's appearance, efficiency and comfort:
· Apply new caulking and weather‐stripping as needed around windows and doors.
· Clean gutters and extensions of debris and leaves to ensure proper drainage
· Re‐grade soil around the house to prevent water pooling at the foundation
· Replace or re‐grout tiles and caulking in the bathrooms to help improve appearance and
reduce the risk of moisture getting behind tiles.
· Ventilate closed basements, cold rooms and crawl spaces, or install a dehumidifier to
prevent musty smells, humidity build‐up, and moisture.
· Wash or Replace dirty filters in the heating and ventilating systems, including furnace, HRV,
humidifier, etc.

Pay attention to details
Fixing even minor items can go a long way toward improving the first impression of your
home. Here are some improvements, which you might consider:
· Repair any leaking faucets / drains and seal around sinks with caulking
· Tighten loose doorknobs – ensure doors close easily and smoothly
· Replace damaged screens or broken panes of glass
· Replace burned‐out light bulbs, and replace broken light fixtures
· Secure loose railings
· Patch small holes in walls and ceilings and repaint / remove or repair wallpaper
· Repair and coat the driveway.

Take safety precautions
Pay attention to items relating to protecting the home and its occupants from danger. The
following are important safety precautions which home buyer's will appreciate, are relatively
easy to implement and shouldn't cost a lot. Moreover, they will keep you safe while selling:
· Install good quality smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
· Ensure adequate outdoor lighting, especially in suburban and
rural locales
· Install 'GFCI' outlets outdoors and in wet locations such as
bath & laundry areas.
· Keep the stairwells tidy and free of debris and obstructions,
and leave plenty of clearance around the garage door,
electrical panel and furnace.
· Keep flammables and combustables away from the furnace
and other utility areas.
· If you have direct entry from the garage to the interior of the home, consider installing a
self‐closing device on the door.

Prepare for the buyer's inspection
More and more purchasers are requesting pre‐purchase inspections. It is a good idea to
assemble in advance the various house records that can be used to
answer questions from the purchaser and their inspector.
· Appliance receipts, service records and warranties
· Information on the age of major components such as 

  the roof
coverings, furnace, air‐conditioner, etc.
· Major component warranties (e.g. roofing, siding, windows,
carpeting, furnace and other appliances
· Heating, water & electric bills from at least the past 12 months

How did your house measure up?
Hopefully, this home seller's checklist has helped you gain a clearer knowledge of your home'soverall condition ‐ from a buyer's perspective. Now you can make repairs or improvements that will increase your home's marketability. It just makes good sense! Of course, even if your house is already in optimum condition, a professional home inspection can also be a good marketing tool. At the end of the inspection, the original copy of the inspection report will be given to you. This can then be put on display for all interested parties to view as they are viewing your home. In addition a full copy of the inspection report & a summary will be putonline for your realtor to use in the marketing of your home. This will increase your chances of attracting offers that are free of the home inspection condition.